Bier voor mensen en goden: hoe brouwde men in Grieks-Romeins Egypte?
Bier als fundament van de menselijke beschaving
“And… and what is civilization if it isn’t people talking to each other over a goddamned beer?” Fayez said, then lolled his head back over his shoulder. “Am I right?” “Fuckin’ A,” Amos called back. – Pagina 9, Hoofdstuk 20: Elvi, Cibola Burn, boek 4 van The Expanse.
Hoewel dit wijze citaat afkomstig is van een eerder uitstekende science fiction-roman in plaats van een groot historisch werk, getuigt het van de betekenis van bier als een cruciaal onderdeel van het sociale weefsel van de samenleving. Als een belangrijke katalysator in de ontwikkeling van beginnende sedentaire nederzettingen en ontluikende rijken, brengt het mensen samen en dient het als een belangrijke motor voor sociale interactie.
Een onaantastbare waarde in Egypte
De oude geschiedenis en samenleving van geen enkel land wordt meer bepaald door het belang van bier dan Egypte. Vanaf het begin van de landbouw in de Nijlvallei werd bier gemaakt van gerst en emmertarwe als een hoofdbestanddeel van de dagelijkse voeding. Zodra de sociale complexiteit zich ontwikkelde samen met de georganiseerde religie, werd het ook een object van religieuze rituelen en begrafenisplechtigheden. Doorheen de hele faraonische en Grieks-Romeinse geschiedenis van Egypte was bier een hoeksteen van cultuur en voeding, niet gehinderd door de dominantie van wijn in het Oude Nabije Oosten vanaf het Hellenistische tijdperk. Als het oudste consistente economische product van het land van de farao's verdient het maken ervan een onderzoek van gerst naar verpakking.
Bierproductie in Grieks-Romeins Egypte (323 voor Christus tot 284 na Christus) is een proces dat bouwt op millennia van traditie beginnend met het ontstaan van landbouw en de ontwikkeling van een hiërarchische samenleving in de Nijlvallei. Vrouwelijke en mannelijke brouwers produceerden bier in zowel huishoudelijke keukens als industriële brouwerijen met eigen maal- en fermentatieruimtes met behulp van fermentatiekruiken, opslagpotten en gistkannen. Door chemische analyses van bierresten uit het Oude Rijk door Delwen Samuel, de vergelijking met contemporaine parallellen gebaseerd op archeobotanisch en chemisch onderzoek van andere hoploze gebrouwen bieren en informatie uit papyri en fragmenten van antieke auteurs is het mogelijk om een mogelijk brouwproces vast te leggen. Deze interdisciplinariteit helpt om een zo waarheidsgetrouw mogelijk proces samen te stellen. Een bier in Grieks-Romeins Egypte had slechts drie ingrediënten nodig: graan (gerst of een mix gedomineerd door gerst), water en gist, een eencellige plant waarvan de gecultiveerde Saccharomyces cerevisiae-stam gecultiveerd geleverd werd in gistkannen.
Een artistieke illustratie van een brouwerij in Egypte.
De elegante eenvoud van het brouwproces
De essentiële stappen in het tweedelige brouwproces van graan zijn ten eerste het ontspruiten, fijnstampen, verzuren, koken, conversie en filtreren en ten tweede alcoholische fermentatie. Dit proces is grotendeels ongewijzigd gebleven sinds 3500 voor Christus, mits enkele kleine wijzigingen, met name de toevoeging van gecultiveerde gist. Eerst verzamelde de brouwer gepelde graantjes. Die werden uitgespreid en blootgesteld aan vocht om hen te laten ontspruiten om amylases te produceren. Na 5 tot 7 dagen werden de gerstgraantjes blootgesteld aan de zon of voorzichtig gedroogd (50 tot 60° Celsius) door warme lucht in een oven om het germinatieproces te beëindigen. Daarna werd het gemalen om mout te maken en gemengd met koud water.
Tegelijkertijd maakte men een tweede hoop gerst klaar. Deze was bereid met gemalen graan (ontspruit of gepeld graan) gekookt in water. Daarna vermengde men de twee groepen om saccharificatie te veroorzaken. Deze mix werd gespoeld met water en daarna perste men het brijachtige mengsel door een geweven mand of een meer geavanceerde metalen of stenen zeef, beiden geplaatst op een grote pot. Tot slot perste men het achtergebleven droesem in de zeef uit om achterblijvende vloeistof eruit te halen.
Alcoholische fermentatie was de laatste en meest cruciale stap in het brouwproces. In dit biologisch proces verkrijgt gist energie door de omzetting van suikers in ethanol en het bijproduct koolstofdioxide (CO2). Eerst werd fermentatie geïnitieerd in de gespoelde suiker- and zetmeelrijke vloeistof. Het gemoute graan in vrijstaand water werd vervolgens gefermenteerd door mogelijk gecultiveerde gist uit gistkannen, eventueel gevolgd door de onbewezen toevoeging van smaakstoffen zoals dadels.
Hier geeft het ontbonden gas het bier zijn carbonisatie en het creeërt de schuimkraag op het bier. Dit proces draagt eveneens bij aan de bewaring (enkele dagen tot maximaal 1 week) aangezien de druk van CO2 lucht en micro-organismen uit de kruik houdt. Nadat de fermentatie voltooid was, werden de vaten afgesloten met een kleischijf en modderpleister en de binnenkant werd mogelijk ingesmeerd voor ondoorlaatbaarheid. Consumptie vond vrijwel meteen plaats als plaats van het dagelijke eetmaal of een feestelijke aangelegenheid.
Schematische voorstelling van het brouwproces.
Het resultaat: verrassend licht en smaakvol
Het licht zoete brouwsel smaakte wellicht naar gemout gerst, met soms hints van emmerkoren, en mogelijk koriander en jeneverbes om de smaak te versterken. Het alcoholpercentage lag tussen dat van tafelbier en het stevigere abdijbier. Waarschijnlijk had het een lagere sterkte (2 tot 3 procent) voor dagelijks gebruik. De kleur was eerder donkerblond met een romige schuimkraag, al maakte men ook dondere bieren waarvan het recept onbekend is. Als deel van het dagelijkse en mogelijk te arme eetpatroon was het rijk aan vezels.
Zelf brouwen? Gewoon doen!
Enkele onderzoekers hebben reeds hun eigen bier gebrouwen aan de hand van een gereconstrueerd recept op basis van chemische analyses van graanresten in bierpotten. Dit soort experimenten is belangrijk om de samenwerking tussen de humane wetenschappen en de natuurwetenschappen te verstevigen en de toegevoegde waarde van dit soort interdisciplinariteit aan te tonen. Daarom zal ik deze zomer en herfst in samenspraak met mijn promotor en een doctoraatsstudent en met de ondersteuning van enkele bio-ingenieurs en bierexperten van de KU Leuven proberen het bovenstaande brouwproces zo getrouw mogelijk proberen na te bootsen om uiteindelijk een Egyptisch bier te bekomen. Schol!
Daan Smets, Masterstudent Master Geschiedenis van de Oudheid aan de KU Leuven.
Promotor: prof. dr. Katelijn Vandorpe.
Bibliografie
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