Wat moeten we doen met 80% van onze kleerkast?

Marie-Julie
De Bruyne

Wist je dat de gemiddelde Belg jaarlijks maar 20% van zijn kleerkast draagt? En wat dan met die andere 80%? Dankzij kledingdeelinitiatieven kan die een tweede leven krijgen. Vooral lokale, digitale en tweedehands deelinitiatieven vallen in de smaak bij Vlaamse consumenten, zo blijkt uit onderzoek aan de UGent.

De gemiddelde Belg draagt jaarlijks maar 20% van zijn kleerkast

Dit gaat je niet in de koude kleren zitten

De textiel- en modewereld heeft een grote negatieve invloed op de klimaatverandering. Volgens een recente studie van McKinsey was deze industrie in 2018 verantwoordelijk voor 4% van de wereldwijde uitstoot van broeikasgassen. Ook het gemiddeld aantal keer dat een kledingstuk wordt gedragen neemt af. Gelukkig stijgt de populariteit van kledingdeelinitiatieven merkbaar. Denk maar aan fysieke tweedehandswinkels zoals Think Twice en online platformen zoals Vinted. Tweedehands kopen, ruilen, huren, lenen en krijgen van kleding zorgt voor meer en langer gebruik van onze onderbenutte kleerkastinhoud. Dat helpt ons in de richting van een circulaire economie, een economie waarin hergebruik een belangrijke rol speelt. Kledingdeelinitiatieven verschillen echter sterk van elkaar en zijn niet allemaal even succesvol bij het publiek. Hoog tijd dus om onderzoek te doen naar de voorkeuren van (383) Vlaamse consumenten bij kledingdeelinitiatieven.

Hoe doen we het?

De cijfers maken meteen veel duidelijk: 60% van de ondervraagden heeft ooit al deelinitiatieven gebruikt om kleding te verkrijgen. Tweedehands kleding kopen is veruit het populairst (45%), gevolgd door het huren of lenen (16%), het ruilen (13%) en het krijgen van kleding (8%).

De kledingdeelinitiatieven uitgekleed

Aangezien geen enkel deelinitiatief hetzelfde is, moeten er keuzes gemaakt worden. Gaan we voor professionele verdelers? Mag het tijdelijk? En tegen betaling? Digitaal? Liefst lokaal? Het onderzoek leerde dat de ondervraagde consumenten vooral kiezen voor permanente, betalende, digitale en lokale kledingdeelinitiatieven.

Gaan we voor professionele verdelers? Het maakt de consument niet echt uit of de kledingdeelinitiatieven in handen zijn van kleine of grote marktspelers, amateurs of professionals. Hoewel deelinitiatieven onder vrienden, familie en kennissen heel wat economische en sociale voordelen bieden, staan sommige gebruikers er eerder terughoudend tegenover omwille van de onzekerheid en de risico’s.

Wel kiezen de consumenten er duidelijk voor om kleding te kopen of te ruilen boven deze te huren of te lenen. Want ze geven nog steeds de voorkeur aan het permanent bezitten van producten in plaats van deze tijdelijk te gebruiken. Gebrek aan bezit is voor de consument een belangrijk obstakel in de overgang naar een circulaire (deel-)economie.

Ook is de meerderheid van de gebruikers voorstander van een klassieke transactie waarbij er betaald wordt met geld. Bij ruilen kost het vaak meer tijd en moeite om een tegenprestatie overeen te komen met de tegenpartij, en dat gedoe laten ze liever achterwege. Handje contantje, weet je wel, en klaar.

Omdat online winkelen geld, tijd en moeite bespaart, gaat de meerderheid van de ondervraagde consumenten via een digitaal platform voor het online delen van kleding. Maar let wel, verder onderzoek maakt toch ook duidelijk dat consumenten online kledingdeelplatformen graag combineren met menselijke interactie. Ze zien het dus niet als vervanging van menselijke interactie. Daarom is de persoonlijke toets in een kledingdeelinitiatief een duidelijk pluspunt.

Tot slot primeren lokale deelinitiatieven boven wereldwijde. Consumenten kopen dus niet alleen graag lokaal, ze delen ook liever lokaal. Doen ze dat omdat ze graag de lokale economie steunen, de ecologische voetafdruk willen verkleinen, de afstand tussen aanbieder en klant willen verkorten en een sterker gevoel van verbondenheid willen ervaren? Het kunnen stuk voor stuk mogelijke verklaringen zijn.

Zit corona ook in de kleren?

Het belang van lokaal en digitaal werd door de pandemie nog eens extra benadrukt. Veel sectoren binnen de deeleconomie werden hard en zelfs heel hard getroffen door de coronacrisis. Denk maar aan de accommodatiediensten zoals Airbnb en Couchsurfing, en mobiliteitsdiensten zoals Bird en Cambio. Andere sectoren binnen de deeleconomie, zoals voedsel-, speelgoed-, zaden- en ook kledingdeelinitiatieven, bleven dan weer goed overeind. Maar heeft de pandemie ook een invloed gehad op de voorkeuren van consumenten bij kledingdeelinitiatieven? De ondervraagde consumenten beweerden van niet. Slechts een kleine 10% van de respondenten gaf aan dat het coronavirus hen echt aanspoorde om lokaal en digitaal kleding te verkrijgen. De anderen lieten weten dat ze daar al voor de coronacrisis van overtuigd waren.

Deel en beheers

Deelinitiatieven, en dus ook kledingdeelinitiatieven, dragen bij tot minder consumptie, tot minder materiaalverbruik, tot een lagere uitstoot van broeikasgassen door productie en transport en uiteindelijk tot een klimaatgezondere wereld. Deel en beheers is dus de boodschap!

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Universiteit of Hogeschool
Universiteit Gent
Thesis jaar
2020
Promotor(en)
Katrien Verleye