De wetenschap achter parfumdupes: is veiligheid een luxe?
Nooit was parfum zo populair, en die populariteit heeft ook een groeiende markt van betaalbare alternatieven aangewakkerd. Je neus laat zich makkelijk overtuigen, maar vertelt niet wat er echt in het flesje zit. Tijd dus om die parfums aan een veiligheidstest te onderwerpen.
Het is maandagochtend en in de keuken van ons kot hangt een zoete, vanilleachtige geur. Niet van het ontbijt, maar van het nieuwe parfum van mijn kotgenoot. Een alternatief voor een merkparfum van 114 euro, vertelt ze. Haar flesje kostte maar tien euro en ze ontdekte het op TikTok. “Ik was benieuwd hoe dicht het bij het origineel zou komen. Voor tien euro wilde ik het wel eens proberen.”
En ze is lang niet de enige. Waar een designerparfum voor veel studenten een luxe blijft, lijkt een goedkoop alternatief, een zogenaamde dupe, een slimme keuze. Dupes zijn geen namaak. In tegenstelling tot copycats, die zich voordoen als het originele merk, brengen dupes een eigen parfum op de markt. Dat parfum is legaal geproduceerd en lijkt opvallend veel op een bekende geur. Maar wat zit er eigenlijk in? Of een flesje van tien euro even veilig is als een van honderd, weet niemand.
Die vraag werd het vertrekpunt van mijn masterproef aan de Universiteit Gent. Ik focuste me op twee populaire designerparfums en vijftien goedkopere alternatieven van verschillende merken en verkooppunten, en bracht met chemische analyses hun samenstelling in kaart. Mijn doel: nagaan hoe dicht de geuren bij elkaar liggen en of een hoger prijskaartje ook meer veiligheid biedt.
Op zoek naar dupes
Het flesje van mijn kotgenoot werd mijn eerste staal, maar zeker niet het laatste. Wie op zoek gaat naar een dupe, merkt al snel dat er keuze genoeg is: online circuleren eindeloze filmpjes en lijstjes. Met die namen op zak trok ik de Veldstraat in, van winkel tot winkel. Samen met de medewerkers testte ik hoe gelijkaardig de geuren wel waren. Van de meest overtuigende mocht ik een klein staaltje meenemen.
Niet alle tegenhangers waren echter in Gent te vinden, en al snel bleek de markt veel groter dan de Veldstraat alleen. Toevallig had ik in die periode een vakantie naar Istanboel gepland, wat achteraf de ideale gelegenheid bleek om mijn zoektocht verder te zetten. In de groothandelsbuurt van de stad, waar in kelders en op zolders parfumdepots verstopt zitten tussen de gewone winkelstraten, verzamelde ik een eerste reeks stalen. Vervolgens vulde ik die collectie verder aan met alternatieven afkomstig van lokale markten. Zo raakte ik, van de Veldstraat tot de straatjes van Istanboel, uiteindelijk aan mijn volledige verzameling en was ik klaar om het laboratorium in te trekken.
De eerste indruk bedriegt
Je neus vertelt je dat iets gelijkaardig ruikt, maar niet welke ingrediënten achter die geur zitten. Om dat te ontdekken, gebruikte ik tweedimensionale gaschromatografie, een techniek uit de olie-industrie die een parfum volledig uiteenrafelt en alle componenten afzonderlijk zichtbaar maakt. Zo kreeg elk flesje zijn eigen chemische vingerafdruk. Die vingerafdrukken legde ik naast elkaar, en de verschillen waren opvallender dan verwacht.
Wat bleek: de grootste overlap tussen een dupe en het origineel zat vooral in de openingsgeur, de aroma’s die je meteen bereiken zodra je een parfum opspuit. Dat is geen toeval. Die openingsgeur is de meest opvallende en herkenbare, waardoor fabrikanten daar bewust sterk op inzetten. Een dupe die die eerste seconden goed weet te raken, wekt al snel de indruk een perfect alternatief te zijn. En voor veel kopers is die eerste indruk genoeg.
Een parfum verandert echter voortdurend nadat het op de huid is aangebracht. Terwijl de openingsgeur verdwijnt, komen diepere noten sterker naar voren. Dat is het moment waarop een parfum echt zijn karakter toont. En net daar werden de verschillen duidelijker. Ingrediënten die in het origineel de basis vormden, werden in de dupes vaker vervangen door goedkopere componenten, of soms zelfs volledig weggelaten. Veel alternatieven proberen dus niet noodzakelijk het volledige parfum te kopiëren. Ze richten zich vooral op de eerste indruk, precies het moment waarop consumenten een geur beoordelen in een winkel.
Goedkoper betekent niet automatisch onveiliger
Een veelgehoorde bezorgdheid is daarnaast dat parfumdupes een lagere prijs hebben ten koste van hun veiligheid. Een terechte bekommernis, aangezien parfums rechtstreeks op de huid worden aangebracht. Daarom onderzocht ik niet alleen hun geurverschillen, maar ook hun chemische samenstelling, met specifieke aandacht voor de aanwezigheid van allergenen en potentieel toxische stoffen.
Uit de analyses bleek dat veel van de aangetroffen allergenen zowel in de designerparfums als in de dupes voorkwamen. Dat is niet verrassend, aangezien deze stoffen vaak deel uitmaken van geurcomposities die al decennialang bekend zijn binnen de parfumeriesector. De aanwezigheid van dergelijke allergenen betekent bovendien niet automatisch dat een parfum onveilig is, maar wel dat gevoelige personen er mogelijk op reageren.
De meest opvallende bevinding was de aanwezigheid van safrol en isosafrol in twee parfums, afkomstig van een toeristenmarkt. Deze stoffen worden beschouwd als potentieel kankerverwekkend en zijn in de Europese Unie (EU) verboden in cosmetica. Bijkomende analyses zijn echter nodig om hun aanwezigheid definitief te bevestigen. Toch is de vondst opmerkelijk, en wijst ze op een risico dat vaker voorkomt bij parfums die buiten het reguliere handelscircuit worden verkocht.
Los daarvan bleek uit de resultaten geen duidelijk verband tussen de prijs van een parfum en de aanwezigheid van problematische stoffen. Dat is ook niet zo verwonderlijk: elk parfum dat in de EU wordt verkocht, moet voldoen aan strenge wettelijke veiligheidseisen, ongeacht of het om een duur designerparfum of een goedkoop alternatief gaat. De prijs van een parfum vertelt daardoor op zichzelf weinig over de veiligheid ervan.
De wetenschap ruikt er doorheen
Achter een geur gaat dus een uitgekiende combinatie van honderden componenten schuil. Een dupe kopieert er een deel van, voldoende om te overtuigen in de winkel, maar vaak niet genoeg om het origineel te evenaren. Of dat uitmaakt, hangt af van wat je zoekt. Wat dit onderzoek in elk geval aantoont: een parfum is veel meer dan zijn eerste indruk. De wetenschap ruikt er doorheen.
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