Nanto Secure: Het paspoort naar circulaire mode

Casper
Van Herzele

Kan je je een wereld voorstellen waarin kledij gemakkelijk kan hergebruikt, gerepareerd en gerecycleerd worden? Dit is broodnodig want op dit ogenblik wordt slechts 1 procent van materialen gerecycleerd in nieuwe kledij. 10% van de wereldwijde CO2-uitstoot is afkomstig van de kledingindustrie, wat meer is dan de uitstoot van internationale vluchten en zeescheepvaart samen.  In recente wetsvoorstellen stelt de Europese Commissie voor dat kledingstukken zullen beschikken over een unieke code, genaamd het 'digital product passport'.

Het digitale productpaspoort

Dit paspoort, vergelijkbaar met een QR-code of serienummer, biedt een schat aan informatie. Als je het scant, krijg je inzicht in hoe je een kledingstuk kunt repareren, de kosten van vervangende onderdelen, doorverkoopwaarde, CO2-uitstoot bij productie en transport, en meer. Maar het gaat verder: het paspoort fungeert ook als een communicatiemiddel tussen belanghebbenden. Reparateurs kunnen bijvoorbeeld hun bevindingen en aanbevelingen documenteren, wat het vertrouwen, de duidelijke communicatie en langdurige relaties bevordert. Het potentieel van deze voorstellen zijn enorm en vormen een cruciale stap naar een duurzame en circulaire toekomst.

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Maar er zijn uitdagingen. Het is van vitaal belang dat deze informatie in de kleding behouden blijft. Anders verliezen deze wetgevingen hun nut en doel. Stel je voor dat deze code op een label wordt afgedrukt en gemakkelijk weggeknipt kan worden met een schaar. Denk ook aan factoren zoals zweet, water of zonlicht die inktdeeltjes kunnen afbreken en labels doen vervagen, waardoor de data niet meer leesbaar is. Daarom ligt de focus op het ontwikkelen van een digitaal productpaspoort dat moeilijk te verwijderen is door consumenten maar wel door recyclers, upcyclers en reparateurs. Het moet ergonomisch zijn, geen irritatie veroorzaken en robuust genoeg zijn om allerlei omstandigheden te doorstaan gedurende de levenscyclus van het kledingstuk. Dit zijn slechts enkele van de cruciale vereisten.

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Nanto Secure

Mijn oplossing is Nanto Secure. Het is een tag die naadloos in kleding kan worden aangebracht. Data wordt op deze tag geplaatst met behulp van NFC-technologie, welke ook wordt gebruikt in hotelbadges of voor contactloze betalingen. Fabrikanten plaatsen kledinggerateerde informatie op de chip en consumenten kunnen de data lezen door hun smartphone tegen Nanto Secure te houden.

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Het wordt op kleding bevestigd door een speld door de stof te steken en deze vast te zetten met een vergrendelingsmechanisme. De tag is klein, licht van gewicht en kan niet worden verwijderd door consumenten. Wel kan het worden verwijderd door instanties die beschikken over de juiste kennis en tools. Kledingmerken kunnen het gebruiken als een knop of bedekken met een label of leren patch, waardoor Nanto veelzijdig inzetbaar is.

cOLLAGE

 

De weg naar circulaire mode

Het digitale paspoort van Nanto Secure vergroot de kans dat data behouden blijft gedurende de levenscyclus van het kledingstuk, en dit draagt bij aan een gesloten materialenkringloop. Dit resulteert in een circulaire economie die transparantie, vertrouwen en effectieve communicatie tussen verschillende belanghebbenden bevordert. Daarom sluit Nanto Secure naadloos aan bij de doelstellingen van de Europese Commissie.

Conclusie

De probleemstelling heb ik interdisciplinair aangepakt in het schemergebied van systemen, bedrijven en producten. Als het ware heb ik de wetsvoorstellen geanalyseerd en gevisualiseerd, waarbij de vertaalslag naar een tastbaar productontwerp centraal stond. Juist deze vertaling stelt consumenten, kledingbedrijven, ontwerpers, recyclers en tweedehandswinkels instaat om op toegankelijke wijze een blik op de toekomst te werpen. Hun feedback is essentieel op Europees niveau voor de optimalisatie van deze wetsvoorstellen.

 

 

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Genomineerde longlist mtech+prijs
Genomineerde shortlist NBN Sustainability Award
Universiteit of Hogeschool
Universiteit Gent
Thesis jaar
2023
Promotor(en)
Francesca Ostuzzi, Fatima Khitous, Bastiaan Baccarne