De Prada Epicenter Store in SoHo, New York. © Mira Nietvelt
In het hart van SoHo, New York, staat de Prada Epicenter Store. Wie er binnengaat, betreedt niet zomaar een winkel, maar ervaart een totaalbeleving. Een houten golf slingert door de ruimte als een toneel waarop de kleren hun verhaal vertellen. Ontworpen door de Nederlandse architect Rem Koolhaas (OMA) in 2001, markeerde de winkel een keerpunt: sindsdien bepaalt architectuur actief mee de identiteit van een modemerk.
Van shoppen naar beleven
Flagship stores, de prestigieuze vlaggenschepen van luxemerken, zijn vandaag veel meer dan verkooppunten. Ze zijn ontworpen om emoties op te roepen en bezoekers onder te dompelen in een merkwereld. Licht, materiaal en ruimte beïnvloeden ons onderbewustzijn en bepalen hoe we ons voelen. Waar een bibliotheek stilte oproept en een stadion collectieve extase, kan een modewinkel intimiteit, spanning of zelfs drama oproepen. Het is precies dat spel met emoties dat merken inzetten om hun identiteit tastbaar te maken.
Kathedralen van mode
Al in de negentiende eeuw veranderden warenhuizen zoals Le Bon Marché in Parijs winkelen in spektakel: brede lichtstraten, glazen koepels en imposante trappenhuizen maakten van shoppen een uitstap voor de bourgeoisie, een sociale gebeurtenis eerder dan een praktische taak.
In de eenentwintigste eeuw zetten luxemerken een volgende stap door toparchitecten aan te trekken. Prada werkt met OMA, CHANEL met Peter Marino, Maison Margiela met Studio Anne Holtrop. Het resultaat: ruimtes die niet enkel producten uitstallen, maar het merk zelf belichamen.
Een bezoek aan een Dover Street Market-winkel van Comme des Garçons voelt bijvoorbeeld als verdwalen in een kunstlabyrint vol onverwachte hoekjes, telkens opnieuw ingericht door kunstenaars en ontwerpers. Bij Alexander McQueen stap je een intiem huis binnen, waar donkere houtsoorten en zachte verlichting samen een sfeer van warmte scheppen. En Maison Margiela dompelt je onder in een poederwitte gipswereld die eerder fluistert dan schreeuwt. Elke ruimte is een verhaal dat moet blijven hangen in het geheugen van de bezoeker.
Een blinde vlek
Opvallend genoeg krijgen deze ruimtes nauwelijks aandacht in architectuuropleidingen. Musea, theaters en bibliotheken worden uitgebreid bestudeerd, maar winkels worden vaak weggezet als te commercieel. Toch zijn het juist plekken waar we ons dagelijks bewegen, die emoties oproepen en ons consumentengedrag mee sturen.
Als architectuurstudente met een passie voor mode bezocht ik flagship stores in New York, Milaan, Parijs en Londen. Ik observeerde hoe de ruimtes zijn opgebouwd en vooral: hoe ze aanvoelden. Niet enkel met mijn ogen, maar met mijn hele lichaam. Via affectieve analyse onderzocht ik hoe architectuur subtiel onze ervaring beïnvloedt: hoe je snelheid verandert op een trap, hoe je ademhaling vertraagt in een intieme kamer, hoe licht en geluid samen een sfeer oproepen.
Waarom fysieke winkels blijven bestaan
In een tijd waarin online shoppen het roer lijkt over te nemen, rijst de vraag of fysieke winkels nog nodig zijn. Mijn onderzoek toont dat een webshop wel producten kan tonen, maar nooit de ervaring kan evenaren van een zorgvuldig ontworpen ruimte. In een winkel hoor je je eigen voetstappen, voel je de materialen en adem je een sfeer in. Daarom investeren merken vandaag nog steeds in indrukwekkende architectuur.
Die pracht en beleving hebben ook een keerzijde. Flagship stores zijn vaak exclusief en benadrukken status en hiërarchie. Architectuur kan uitnodigen, maar ook uitsluiten. Juist die spanning maakt modearchitectuur zo relevant: ze toont hoe ruimte niet enkel schoonheid en emotie oproept, maar ook sociale systemen en ongelijkheid zichtbaar maakt.
Shoppen in de metaverse
De flagship stores van morgen zullen spelen met technologie en duurzaamheid, maar tegelijk teruggrijpen naar tactiliteit en traagheid als tegengewicht voor onze digitale wereld. Denk aan virtuele collecties die enkel bestaan in de metaverse, naast winkels die de nadruk leggen op tastbare materialen en zintuiglijke beleving. Zeker is dat wie vandaag een flagship store bezoekt, geen neutrale ruimte betreedt. Het is een toneel waarop mode en architectuur samen een verhaal opvoeren. En jij, als bezoeker, bent telkens de hoofdrolspeler.
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